In a remote corner of Azerbaijan, a monumental statue of a woman holding a broad bundle of cotton stands tall at an anonymous T-junction. The statue, painted in now-fading white, is a symbol of the nation’s “white gold” heroes—cotton workers whose relentless efforts have supported the country’s once-powerful cotton industry. Behind the statue, an expansive frieze depicts dozens of figures, predominantly women, in determined, almost heroic poses.
However, the reality of cotton farming in Azerbaijan is far from the glory suggested by these statues and murals. Decades of socioeconomic challenges, climate change, and evolving market demands have transformed this once-thriving industry into a demanding struggle for the women and men who work the cotton fields. Today, the industry sits at a crossroads: grappling with its historical roots and exploring innovative techniques to secure a more sustainable future.
For centuries, Azerbaijan’s cotton has been a crucial part of its economic fabric, particularly during its time as a vital link along the Silk Road and later under Soviet rule. Often dubbed “white gold,” cotton was second only to oil in economic significance. In the 1980s, the industry was at its peak, with cotton covering hundreds of thousands of hectares and producing approximately 830,000 tonnes annually.
In the Soviet era, cotton was more than a crop; it was a cornerstone of the collective farming system. Soviet planners prioritized the crop for its revenue-generating potential, a focus that has persisted even after Azerbaijan gained independence in 1991. Yet, as Azerbaijan pivoted toward its oil reserves, the cotton industry withered. By 2009, production had fallen dramatically, covering only 21,000 hectares and yielding a meager 31,000 tonnes of cotton—a fraction of what it once produced.
Recognizing the need for economic diversification, the Azerbaijani government made cotton farming a strategic priority in 2016. This decision was driven largely by a decline in global oil prices and a subsequent push to stabilize the economy by reviving agriculture. Aiming for an ambitious six-fold increase in cultivated land and a ten-fold rise in production by 2022, the government sought to bring the industry back to life. By 2023, cotton fields stretched across 100,000 hectares, contributing roughly 25% of Azerbaijan’s agricultural revenue.
Despite the government’s ambitious goals, life in Azerbaijan’s cotton fields remains a challenge, especially for the rural women who make up the majority of the workforce. A 2019 report by the United Nations Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO) revealed that around 80% of Azerbaijan’s cotton laborers are women, primarily from landless, rural households with limited access to other employment opportunities.
Ms. Mehpara Asadova, a 58-year-old veteran of the cotton fields, paints a stark picture of the life led by these workers. “We come and earn 15 manats (US$9) from here,” she says. “We pay for electricity and gas, but we can barely afford meat. That is how it is.” The hours are long, the work grueling, and the compensation insufficient, leaving little room for respite or upward mobility.
Stories of fainting from exhaustion are not uncommon. “Believe me, there are women in the field who faint out of exhaustion,” Ms. Asadova continues. “What can they do? They have no choice but to come and work. They are in need; they work out of desperation.”
These women toil under extreme conditions, often in temperatures exceeding 30 degrees Celsius. In the fields, women in their 50s and 60s work alongside younger counterparts, all wearing brightly colored shawls that provide limited relief from the scorching sun. The work remains much the same as it was decades ago: labor-intensive, physically demanding, and plagued by uncertainties tied to the climate and economy.
Cotton farming in Azerbaijan is complicated further by a changing climate. Rising temperatures, unpredictable rainfall, and water scarcity have created challenging conditions for farmers. Cotton requires substantial water for growth, and Azerbaijan’s semi-arid climate, particularly in regions such as Imishli, depends heavily on irrigation sourced from the Araz and Kura rivers.
The Araz River, originating in Turkey, provides essential irrigation for Azerbaijan’s cotton fields. The Soviet-era Bahramtapa Hydro Hub, which manages water for agriculture in the region, is part of a complex system of canals and reservoirs that distribute water to hundreds of thousands of hectares of farmland. However, this aging infrastructure is insufficient to meet the increasing demands of a warming climate.
Farmer Tofiq Aslanov laments the challenges he faces, often contemplating leaving the area for more fertile land. “Since we live on the outskirts of the village, we can’t find fresh water. Our crops have dried up and our lands have ended up deteriorated like this,” he says. “Cotton is wonderful for job creation, but with no water, everyone loses motivation.”
The government is working to upgrade the irrigation infrastructure by lining canals with concrete to minimize seepage and promote efficient water use. However, with more than 70% of the country’s water supply originating from neighboring countries, Azerbaijan faces geopolitical as well as environmental challenges in ensuring a stable water supply for its crops.
Azerbaijan’s efforts to modernize the cotton industry are channeled primarily through MKT Istehsalat Kommersiya, a dominant force in the country’s cotton industry. MKT contracts with approximately 10,000 farmers and handles around half of the country’s ginning operations. While some farmers express frustration at the economic control wielded by MKT, others see it as a necessary player in the industry’s revitalization.
MKT has invested millions in technology and infrastructure, cultivating 4,000 hectares of cotton in Saatli using advanced techniques such as drip irrigation, satellite-guided tractors, and improved soil preparation methods. “Water scarcity is being identified across the world. We are also facing water shortages. That’s why our government is taking measures,” said Mr. Huseynov Sedafar, director of MKT’s innovation branch in Saatli.
These innovations have the potential to reduce water usage by up to 60% and prevent the spread of disease in cotton plants. However, the adoption of these techniques across the sector has been slow, in part due to cultural resistance and the financial burdens faced by smallholder farmers who cannot afford the initial investment.
Azerbaijan’s reliance on raw cotton exports leaves it vulnerable to fluctuating global market prices. Most of the country’s cotton is exported to Turkey, Iran, and Bangladesh for further processing, contributing to the country’s export revenue but leaving room for significant value addition.
Experts like Mr. Toghrul Valiyev, an independent economist based in Baku, emphasize the need for domestic processing. “We have resources, raw materials, and I don’t know why we’re not making investments to do something with them,” Valiyev says. Only a small percentage of Azerbaijan’s cotton is processed locally, meaning the bulk of the value is added elsewhere.
GP Cotton Holdings, a fully integrated cotton and textile company, has taken a different approach. Chairman John Young Simpson believes in embedding sustainability into every stage of the cotton production chain, from farming to finished products. “Within 100 kilometers in Azerbaijan, we go from dirt to shirt. And we have full traceability along that supply chain,” he explains. This closed-loop approach is intended to reduce carbon miles and tap into the growing global demand for sustainable textile products.
Behind the economic potential of cotton is the social cost borne by workers like Ms. Asadova and countless other rural women. The women who have labored in cotton fields for decades see little change in their circumstances, despite modernization efforts. For them, the conversation around “sustainability” and “innovation” seems far removed from the reality of their daily struggles.
Ms. Leyla Najafguluyeva, a community advocate in Imishli, underscores the need to remember these women’s contributions as Azerbaijan’s agricultural sector evolves. “We know that our women, especially those who pick cotton, endure a lot of hardship. People need to witness and acknowledge the difficulties they go through,” she says.
The COP29 climate summit, being hosted in Baku, will highlight the challenges and opportunities facing Azerbaijan’s agriculture sector. Discussions will include efforts to reduce emissions, implement climate-smart agriculture, and empower rural communities. Yet, the focus of these initiatives must remain inclusive, ensuring that those whose labor sustains the industry are not left behind in the march toward progress.
