In the heart of Banda Aceh, the capital of Indonesia’s most conservative province, a quiet revolution is brewing—cup by cup. At Morning Mama, a cafe run entirely by women, 28-year-old owner Qurrata Ayuni and her team are redefining gender roles in a region where traditional values often limit women’s participation in public and professional life.
Opening her doors last year, Qurrata has created more than just a place to enjoy a steaming latte; she has built a sanctuary. “I thought, why not open a place that is comfortable for women?” she said, smiling as the aroma of freshly brewed coffee fills the air.
In Banda Aceh, famously known as the “city of 1,001 coffee shops,” Morning Mama stands out—not for its trendy decor or exclusive menu—but for its mission: to provide a safe, welcoming space where women can gather, work, and be themselves.
Aceh’s rich coffee culture dates back to the Dutch colonial era, when the region’s fertile highlands began cultivating beans that would later become internationally acclaimed. Today, Aceh’s traditional sanger latte—a robust mix of coffee and condensed milk—is a staple for locals and visitors alike.
But while coffee is central to Aceh’s identity, so too are its ultraconservative Islamic values. As the only province in Indonesia to implement Islamic law, Aceh enforces strict social norms, including by-laws requiring Muslim women to wear hijabs. Public whipping remains a common punishment for offences like gambling, alcohol consumption, and extramarital relationships.
In this environment, running a coffee shop is considered a man’s domain. “It’s extremely difficult for women in Aceh to pursue education or a career, facing not only legal restrictions but also social bullying,” said Andreas Harsono of Human Rights Watch. Yet, Qurrata defied expectations, driven by a vision of empowerment and change.
Unlike the rowdy, smoke-filled male-dominated coffee shops scattered across Banda Aceh, Morning Mama offers something entirely different. It’s a place where hijab-wearing women sip coffee, browse children’s books, and even purchase menstruation pads—all without judgment.
“There’s no cigarette smoke, it’s not noisy, it’s really cosy,” Qurrata said, gesturing to her warmly lit cafe. Men are not banned but make up a minority of customers, underscoring the space’s unique appeal for women.
“It’s a statement that women can own businesses, make decisions, and lead,” she added. “Now is the time for change.”
The cafe employs five women and two men, with Qurrata emphasizing her mission to provide opportunities for women to break free from societal constraints. The response has been overwhelming: more than 1,000 women applied when she advertised a barista position.
For 23-year-old barista Caca, working at Morning Mama has been life-changing. “It’s a really cool job, and jobs like this for women are so rare in Aceh,” she said.
Regular patrons agree. For 21-year-old university student Meulu Alina, the cafe feels uniquely supportive. “I feel more connection if I ask something with a woman barista,” she said. “It’s more like talking with your sister.”
The cafe’s success is a beacon of hope for women in Aceh, where traditional norms have long restricted their roles. Qurrata acknowledges that running a business as a woman comes with challenges, especially the fear of social stigma.
“People here tend to believe that women should stay at home,” she explained. But attitudes are slowly evolving, especially among older generations who recognize the winds of change.
Haji Nawawi, owner of Banda Aceh’s iconic Solong coffee shop, admitted that while he doesn’t employ women, he considers it “normal” for women to run cafes elsewhere. “Values from outside Aceh have entered the province,” he noted, signaling a grudging acceptance.
Qurrata’s resilience stems from personal tragedy. At just eight years old, she lost her parents in the devastating 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami, which claimed over 200,000 lives. Her village near Banda Aceh was obliterated, but she survived, raised by her aunt and uncle.
“Losing my parents so young shaped me,” she said. “It taught me to be strong and channel my grief into something meaningful.”
After years of saving through photography jobs, she built the confidence to launch her cafe, supported by encouragement—and some financial help—from her uncle. “It was a leap of faith,” she said, “but I knew it was time to start something of my own.”
Qurrata hopes her success will inspire other women in Aceh to pursue their ambitions, no matter the odds. “Women are capable of so much more than we’re often given credit for,” she said passionately. “We can be leaders, creators, and innovators. So don’t just sit back. Don’t be afraid.”
She views her cafe not just as a business but as a platform to help others find their strength. “It’s about resilience,” she said. “If I could overcome my past, so can they.”
Despite fluctuating revenues, Qurrata’s focus remains on empowerment. She envisions a future where more women can step into leadership roles, proving that change is possible—even in Aceh.
The path to gender equality in Aceh remains steep. But cafes like Morning Mama are proving that progress can start with something as simple as a cup of coffee.
For the women who walk through its doors, Morning Mama is more than a cafe. It’s a symbol of hope, a space to dream, and a reminder that, even in the most conservative corners of the world, change is brewing.
As Qurrata aptly puts it: “This is only the beginning. Together, we can build a brighter future—one sip at a time.”
