The first man on the roof of the world: He had Touched the Top of Everest the roof of the world. 44 years ago, he was the first person in the world, who stood there without resorting to extra oxygen.
The temperature on the roof of the world was getting desperate to go below minus 18. This 60-degree difference in temperature is not easily conceivable at all. Without an oxygen cylinder in such a cold place, he stood as an example of valor and vitality.
At that moment he had a slight feeling that the place where he was standing was Mount Everest, also known as Sagarmatha, the highest place on earth. The Nepali Name Sagarmatha means goddess of the sky, while Tibetans call it Chomolungma or goddess of the universe. The height of this peak is 8848.86 meters or 29,031. 69 feet above sea level.
The real climb here begins after 8,000 meters. The snowy region of 848 meters in the middle is its own territory of death. Hundreds of people come to this area but are not able to return. Millions of people dream of Touching the Top of Everest, but only five to ten of them reach here.
However, this climb seemed to have squeezed everything out of his body, nothing was understandable. There was no thought or feeling. Indeed, where breathing is difficult, even thinking becomes impossible. Meaning even thinking needs a full breath. Then the scope for increasing or decreasing one step seemed difficult. Realized that where he had dreamed of reaching, he had reached there. As if all the work is over.
Not long ago, he used to walk five steps and then let himself fall in the snow, with great difficulty filling some air in the lungs, then he used to crawl and climb again. There came a time in the climb when after a couple of steps, the snow had to be made a bed.
After two, there was no strength left for the third step. The strength was gathered, so it seemed that this time four steps would be taken, but then one had to roll on the same two steps so that the body could gather some strength lying down.
By meeting the highest peak, it was as if a state of spiritual abstraction was achieved. I was losing my sight to think. At times it seemed that he was nothing more than a narrow gasping lung. The lungs were also starting to stone, becoming heavy, as if floating on a fog of ice.
Sometimes, the fog will blow away somewhere. Even if there was some fear, then step back. There was very little energy left in the slow returning steps. Somehow while slowly returning, extreme weather, cold and steep snowy slopes met again.
As the body came down, it became easier to take oxygen, so the power of thinking also got settled. While returning from this roof of the world, once that mountaineer had lost his brother. Everyone thought that after that mountaineering would be missed, but mountaineering is a disease, something happens in the feet and brain. When the lower regions of the world are milder than the heat, climbers are in places on the mountains that have to fight the cold to survive.
Well, a few days later, the whole world came to know that the Italian climber named Reinhold Messner is the first person who touched Everest on 8 May 1978 without extra oxygen. The special thing was that on the same day, Messner’s partner Peter Habeler also climbed Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen.
How much did the doctors forbid that climbing such a mountain without oxygen is like playing with your life? History has witnessed that oxygen masks and tanks have to be used above 8,000 meters. But Messner had practised climbing other peaks of the world without an oxygen cylinder.
He knew that the amount of oxygen at the summit is reduced to less than a third above sea level, but it is not that there is no oxygen at all. It was to prove that even with the help of one-third of natural oxygen, the roof of the world could be Touching the Top of Everest.
Born in 1944, Reinhold Messner is the first person to climb Everest alone. He is the first person in the world to climb all fourteen peaks above 8,000 meters above sea level.
He is the first person to cross Antarctica and Greenland without a snowmobile or dog car. He was the first to cross the Gobi desert alone.